Welcome to the Pond Shield FAQ. This comprehensive Pond Shield FAQ guide is designed to help you with everything about Pond Shield, including surface preparation, application methods, curing time, and safety. Always follow the instructions included with your kit, and review the guidance below for additional technical details.
Product & Safety
What surfaces can Pond Shield be applied to?
Pond Shield can be applied to properly prepared concrete, cement, shotcrete, gunnite, brick, block, stone, tile, wood, metals (steel, aluminum, copper, cast iron, brass), fiberglass, PVC/ABS pipe, and some plastics. It can also be applied over certain old coatings, provided the surface is prepared correctly.
Can I coat my rubber or plastic pond liner with Pond Shield?
No. Rubber and polyethylene/polypropylene liners are designed to repel other materials. There is currently no coating that will adhere long-term to these liner materials without a heat-and-pressure vulcanization process.
Is Pond Shield fish and plant safe?
Yes. Once fully cured, Pond Shield is safe for fish and aquatic plants. The cured coating is non-toxic and designed specifically for water containment environments.
How long before I can add water and fish?
In most cases, 24 hours is sufficient. In cooler temperatures, allow an additional 12 hours. Before filling, confirm there are no tacky areas remaining on the surface.
Does Pond Shield have a strong odor?
No. The odor is minimal during application and many customers report that standard latex paint smells stronger.
Is Pond Shield considered a HAZMAT material?
No. Pond Shield is not classified as hazardous material and can be shipped by ground, air, or sea without special handling fees.
Can Pond Shield be applied over old coatings?
Yes — but failing coatings must be removed first. Any remaining bonded coating should be sanded with 60-grit sandpaper to create proper surface tooth. For best results, full removal of old coatings is recommended.
How does Pond Shield compare to rubber pond liners?
Pond Shield provides a permanent, rigid waterproof barrier that will not puncture from roots, rocks, or ground movement. It is competitively priced per square foot and can be applied by homeowners without a specialized installation crew.
Can Pond Shield be used for planters, aquariums, or grow beds?
Yes. Pond Shield works well for garden planters, aquariums (fresh and saltwater), grow beds, bird baths, and other water containment structures.
Can I order Pond Shield in a custom color?
Yes. Solid custom colors can be matched from a paint chip. A minimum order of five 1.5-gallon kits is required for custom color production.
Surface Preparation
Proper surface preparation is critical for long-term performance. The finished surface should generally feel like 60-grit sandpaper before coating.
Concrete
Does concrete need to cure before applying Pond Shield and do I need to acid etch?
Yes. Concrete must cure before etching:
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28 days for standard concrete
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7 days for polymer or accelerated concrete
Etching removes calcium deposits and neutralizes surface alkalinity to improve adhesion.
Acid etching serves two critical purposes:
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It removes calcium deposits that naturally form on curing concrete. These deposits can detach over time, potentially causing the coating to release.
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It neutralizes alkaline properties at the surface of the concrete, improving long-term bond strength.
A properly etched surface will feel similar to 60-grit sandpaper. If the surface feels smooth, additional preparation may be required.
Pond Armor Surface Prep is a safer alternative to using muriatic acid. It is designed to clean calcium deposits out of the surface pores of concrete and other concrete types of substrates. It is a safe replacement for other types of acid such as muriatic, phosphoric, citric and others. It uses a low pH organic salt to replace traditional mineral and organic acids.
What if my concrete surface is uneven?
High spots can be ground down using a coarse flexible disk. In severe cases, a thin concrete render (minimum ¾ inch thick) can be applied using a bonding agent to improve adhesion.
What about holes or pits in concrete?
Concrete is porous and often contains small pits and voids. When Pond Shield is applied over these imperfections, air can become trapped inside them. As the epoxy begins its chemical curing process, it generates heat. This heat causes trapped air to expand and rise to the surface, creating bubbles in the coating — a process known as outgassing.
If these bubbles are not addressed, they may need to be sanded and touched up after curing.
To significantly reduce the risk of outgassing, Pond Shield Primer can be applied prior to the final coating. The primer helps displace air within the surface pores, minimizing bubble formation and improving overall bond integrity.
Should I degrease concrete before etching?
If oils, silicone sealers, or other contaminants are suspected, use a strong concrete degreaser prior to etching.
Wood
How should wood be prepared?
Sand the wood until it feels like 60-grit sandpaper. Hand sanding is recommended to create grooves that improve bonding.
Because wood absorbs material, allow the first coat to cure for a couple of hours before applying additional coats.
Do wood joints need reinforcement?
In many cases, yes. Reinforce wall-to-floor joints with fiberglass mat or woven fiberglass. Crack RX can be used to fill gaps before coating. Bulkhead fittings are recommended for plumbing penetrations.
Does the structure need to be reinforced?
Yes. Wood structures must be rigid. Excess flexing can compromise the waterproof seal over time.
Stone & Rock
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Clean and etch thoroughly.
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Smooth river rock should be ground to create surface tooth.
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Loose rocks must be secured before coating.
Metal
How should metal be prepared?
Remove corrosion and grind the surface to create tooth. Apply a self-etching primer before coating. Rust-converting primer may be used where necessary.
Brick / Block
Brick and block must be etched prior to coating. Mortar joints should be flush finished for easier application. Rough surfaces may require additional material to achieve proper thickness.
Fiberglass
Sand thoroughly with 60-grit sandpaper and clean using wax and grease remover with lint-free cloths. Wear gloves during preparation and application to prevent contamination.
PVC / ABS Pipe
Sand thoroughly, wipe clean, and apply PVC primer 1–2 minutes before coating.
Tile
Unglazed tile should be abraded to 60-grit texture.
Glazed tile must have the glaze removed for proper adhesion. If glaze cannot be removed, coat beneath the tile, allow to cure, sand lightly, then install tile using a high-bond adhesive.
Mixing & Application
Do I need to prime before applying Pond Shield?
Pond Shield is typically a standalone product. Primer is recommended for porous or pitted concrete surfaces to reduce outgassing bubbles.
How many coats are required?
The final coating thickness must be at least 10 mils (approximately three sheets of paper thick).
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Smooth surfaces may allow one 10-mil coat.
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Rough surfaces typically require two coats at approximately 5 mils each.
Can I apply a second coat?
Yes.
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Within 10 hours: no sanding required.
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After 12 hours: scuff with 60-grit sandpaper before recoating.
Why is my coverage lower than expected?
Coverage is calculated mathematically based on volume and thickness.
One gallon of liquid material will spread approximately 1,604 square feet at 1 mil thickness.
Because Pond Shield must be applied at a minimum of 10 mils (approximately three sheets of paper thick), theoretical coverage is derived from that calculation.
However, rough or porous surfaces contain peaks and valleys that consume additional material. These surface irregularities reduce real-world coverage compared to smooth substrates.
Other factors that may affect yield include:
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Mixing larger batches than conditions allow
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Leaving material in the mixing container (which reduces pot life)
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Applying material too thick in certain areas
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Using improper application tools
What is the best way to mix Pond Shield?
The amount of material mixed at one time should be based on working conditions such as temperature, humidity, surface type, and installer experience.
It is recommended to begin with smaller batches, even when using larger kits. This allows you to gauge workable time before increasing batch size.
During mixing:
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Thoroughly scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing container.
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Fold all unmixed material into the blend.
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Incomplete mixing may result in material that does not fully cure.
For smaller quantities, mix by hand using a mixing stick.
For larger quantities, use a drill-mounted mixer at slow speed in reverse.
Once mixed, immediately remove the material from the mixing container and pour it into a large paint pan or directly onto the working surface. Leaving the material in the mixing container significantly shortens pot life due to heat buildup from the curing reaction.
My pond still leaks after coating. What happened?
After the initial coating is applied, the entire interior surface must be inspected carefully.
The best way to inspect is by viewing the surface at an angle under strong light, preferably direct sunlight. This allows small imperfections to become visible.
Look for:
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Cracks
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Crevices
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Voids
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Thin areas
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Exposed concrete or substrate
Keep in mind that brick or mortar surfaces may appear visually uneven due to the underlying structure. However, the coating itself should appear smooth and continuous.
Every square foot of the submerged surface must be coated completely. If any flaw is discovered, lightly scuff the area with 60-grit sandpaper and apply a touch-up coat. Once 100% surface coverage is achieved, the containment unit will not leak.
Can I spot repair a crack?
Spot repairs alone are not recommended. Concrete is porous and water may bypass isolated patches. Repair cracks properly using Crack RX, then coat the entire submerged surface.
The finished surface feels slippery. Can I add traction?
Yes. Apply a thin final coat and broadcast sand into the wet coating. Once cured, vacuum excess sand to create a non-slip surface.
Ordering, Coverage, & Support FAQ
Where can I purchase Pond Shield?
Pond Shield can be purchased directly through our online store or by phone. If you prefer to buy locally, contact us and we can let you know if there is a retailer in your area.
I’m a retailer. How do I carry Pond Shield?
Contact us directly to discuss vendor packages and wholesale opportunities. We’re happy to speak with retailers about becoming an authorized distributor.
I’m a contractor or installer. Do you offer contractor pricing?
Yes. Contractor and installer packages are available. Contact us to discuss options.
What if my local retailer doesn’t carry Pond Shield?
Ask them to contact us directly. In the meantime, you can order through our website or by phone.
Do you have a printed catalog?
No. All products and technical information are available on our website.
I can’t find 90% isopropyl alcohol. What can I use instead?
You may use denatured alcohol, 90%+ isopropyl alcohol, 180-proof vodka, or 180-proof Everclear. Alcohol is not always required when applying Pond Shield to a smooth surface.
I’m not getting the square footage advertised on the kit. Why?
Coverage is calculated mathematically (1 gallon spreads 1,604 sq ft at 1 mil). Rough or porous surfaces reduce yield due to peaks and valleys in the substrate.
Other factors that can reduce coverage include:
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Improper mixing
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Leaving material in the mixing container
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Applying too thick
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Using incorrect tools
Always apply at a minimum finished thickness of 10 mils.
